Save Money on Spare Parts – Without Blowing Your Warranty | Car Advice

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Save Money on Spare Parts – Without Blowing Your Warranty

By John Cadogan |

Last time around, this column was about the terms and conditions of your warranty – specifically whether or not you are required to use the dealer you bought the car from, or another dealer in that brand’s franchise network, to service your car. The bottom line there is: you’re not required to have your car serviced at a factory-backed dealership. The ACCC has a robust list of prerequisites on who you can use to service your car and maintain your warranty, and we laid them out.

Doing this is called consumer advocacy. CarAdvice is for consumers (which is why it’s not called ‘CarDealerPropaganda.com.au’), and I’m all for consumers playing the automotive game with their eyes open, fully cognizant of the rules of engagement. Despite merely offering this advice, I was labelled “anti-dealer”, and accused of referring to factory-based dealers as “thieves”, “incompetent” and “liars” – when in fact I alleged no such thing. And I’m not anti-dealer.

The fact is, consumers have a choice in selecting a service technician, and many are erroneously of the view that if they want to protect their warranties they are locked into getting their car serviced at a factory-based dealership, as if the warranty is a set of golden handcuffs for service. They are not – and this isn’t my view, it’s the ACCC’s.

Frankly there are advantages and disadvantages to both servicing arrangements – and both are highly dependent on the individual car owner’s priorities and the underlying culture at play in the business providing the service.

One reader of that last report said that the new car sales divisions of most dealerships operate at a loss or just break even, and that it’s the service and parts departments that generate the profitability. I suspect that’s not actually the case, but even if it is, it is not a valid argument to suggest that consumers get their car serviced inside the factory network just so the dealer can turn a profit.

Consumers are generally (rightly) focussed on ‘what’s in it for me?’ and car dealers are hardly charities. Consumers simply have the right to reduce their operating costs, and as much as car dealers hate hearing it, using the warranty as a lever to mandate the service of a car by the factory dealer network would be an anti-competitive practise, and therefore and illegal one.

So, if car dealers want to enjoy the profit that can be enjoyed from servicing new cars then they need to compete with privateers – by offering a better (not necessarily cheaper) service experience. Some are already doing that, and some clearly aren’t. There is a lot of variation in the market.

It’s very frustrating for car companies (as opposed to dealers) that they can’t control the quality of service being offered in some of their franchised dealerships.

Which brings me to another hate mail-inducing topic: spare parts. And I might as well drop the bombshell early: your new vehicle warranty is not dependent on you using only genuine (factory) replacement parts. More on that in a sec.

As car owners, we all dread dropping our cars in for a service and expecting a typical $300 (or something) bill, only to receive the dreaded phone call about lunchtime. You know what I’m talking about – ‘we were just checking X, and we discovered your [insert important mechanical widget name here] is shot to pieces, and it’s going to cost you $2k – so should we go ahead with it?’.

Scary stuff. At this time of year in particular a call like this can certainly put a dent in those family Christmas holiday plans.

Here’s what you should do:

First up, you should ask for a breakdown of the price. This is so you can know exactly which parts are required, what they cost, and what the labour to fit them costs. And then you should shop around.

The bottom line here is that if you want to fit genuine parts, this is of course fine. You can generally buy genuine parts only at factory-based dealers. However, this does not mean the price of those parts will be the same at each and every dealer.

Dealers are generally independent businesses (ie independent of the car company whose brand’s livery they display). This means it would be a breach of Australia’s anti-competitive legislation for parent car companies to fix the price of spare parts at dealerships – in other words dealers are free to sell spare parts at whatever price they think the market will bear.

The upshot is that it really pays to price the parts at three or four dealerships before just agreeing blindly to a single price quoted over the telephone. There is sometimes a large variation from dealer to dealer. I’ve had three different conversations with senior executives in car companies on the spare parts wholesaling side of the business who tell me – off the record – that there is a tidy profit margin for the retailer built into the recommended retail price of genuine spare parts. However, these same senior executives are often amazed at how much higher, above the rrp, some dealers manage to push the price of some parts, and still get away with it.

I can only presume this is the case because some consumers feel as if there is a monopoly at play, and if they want their cars back on the road then the price quoted is the price that must be paid. In fact nothing could be further from the truth. There are also warranty-preserving options outside of genuine parts.

The use of genuine parts is actually not a condition of maintaining your warranty. Aftermarket parts are perfectly acceptable – provided the quality is right. Please don’t take my word alone for it; the ACC and the RAC agree. According to the ACCC, as quoted on the RAC’s website: “The issue here is not who manufactured the part/s, it is whether the part/s are fit or appropriate for the purpose intended.”

The ACCC goes on: “If a part is non-genuine, but is interchangeable with the genuine part, it could be seen as being fit or appropriate for the purpose and would therefore not void the manufacturer’s warranty. However, it must also be noted that should the part/s installed fail or not perform satisfactorily, the consumer then has rights against the fitter and/or manufacturer of those replacement parts. If the non-genuine part fails, and causes some other damage to the vehicle, the dealer and vehicle manufacturer will not be liable for damage caused by the failure of that part.”

That basically spells out the rules of the game – and they do seem very reasonable – the most sensible application of those rules being that high-quality OEM-specification (‘original equipment manufacturer’) non-genuine spare parts sourced from the aftermarket industry could well save you money as well as not being an impediment to your warranty. You should also be aware that there are some aftermarket parts, often sold at rock-bottom prices, which really are sub-standard in quality, and which you would be a mug to consider using.

For example there are plenty of quality aftermarket hoses, belts, brake components, springs, dampers, bushes, electrical parts, filters, clutches, gasket kits, timing belt kits, automotive glass, etc., which are equal in quality to the genuine parts and sometimes sold more cheaply because they’re not subject to the same overheads – in some de-facto sense helping to pay for the coffee machine, the imported marble tiles and the two-storey floor-to-ceiling architectural glass in the foyer.

Look at it like this: it’s doubtful a local manufacturer like Holden manufactures its own brake rotors or brake pads for the Commodore. These, and dozens of other parts, are sourced from local component suppliers. Those suppliers doubtless sell the same parts (effectively) or essentially similar ones into the aftermarket industry – in different packaging perhaps, and perhaps at a cheaper price than the same parts in branded packaging in the dealership.

One thing’s for sure, however. At a factory-backed dealership this option (to shop around) is not generally spelled out. So, in the lead-up to Christmas, if you get hit by one of those can’t-jump-over-it service bills, don’t forget to press ‘pause’ on the whole operation and shop around – you could save a significant amount of dough. And if you decide to go with quality aftermarket parts instead of genuine ones, don’t assume you’re blowing your warranty – because that’s absolutely not the case.


 
  • Save It for the track

    Sounds like an absolute can of worms to me. I can just imagine the poo fight that would happen if non genuine parts were used and they failed causing damage to other components. What if damage was done on a large scale to an engine and it could’t be ascertained exactly which part went first. One can just imagine the Vehicle manufacturer pointing the finger straight at the non-genuine part, and the manufacturer of the non-genuine part doing the same.
    .
    Reminds me a bit of a lurk in the 80′s when panel beaters were getting cheap doors from Japan, or course they didn’t have the side intrusion bars that ADR’s required.
    .
    While Falcodores might be able to get cheaper aftermarket clutches and gearboxes, and some other parts, many other marques out there wouldn’t be in the same boat.
    .
    On another point, how exactly does one know that a non-genuine part is equal or better quality than genuine?

    • Andrew M

      Agree, One big fat can of worms.

      The onus will be on the car owner to prove the non genuine part didnt cause a failure if it did indeed happen.

      Also I find this as a bit of a rant for rant sakes because if you were replacing clutches, brake components, gaskets, electrical components, bushes, springs, dampers etc while the car was under warranty, they should be replaced with genuine because the dealer would be paying for it anyway because those items are generally warrantable items.

      The only things that would be non warrantable and non genuine replacable would be filters and oils. Well its no secret that genuine dealerships even vary their brands of fluids because there is no “Holden branded” oil for eg.

      That leaves Filters. If a filter causes a failure its because of lack of maintainence so you wont get warranty on it anyhow genuine or non genuine

      • Radbloke

        Not true at all. Brakes and clutches are wear and tear items and would only be replaced under warranty if found to be defective. If, say, you were not a very good manual driver and tend to ride the clutch and it happens to burn out in 50k clicks, it is not a warranty item. Same with many bushes/tensioners. They have a finite life, and many will require replacement before the end of your warranty period.

        • http://CarAdvice La Mercator

          So dealership service and parts departments are set up to make a profit? Who Knew?
          How many parts would you expect to have to buy while the car is under warrenty?
          I would much rather have all dealership stamps in my service book when it comes to re sale time. It adds value.
          And they (the dealership) invest allot of money in the correct equipment for my car and the right technicians to operate it.
          Who wants the service book signed off by Billy Bob of ABC service department, Hicksville just to save a few dollars???????

          • http://www.caradvice.com.au/ John Cadogan

            The point of the story wasn’t that car dealerships are designed to be profitable. It was to point out the legalities of the relationship between parts and new car warranties. The rules, if you like, as specified by the ACCC.

            It never ceases to amaze me how you blokes in dealer land can be so unbelievably defensive about this stuff. Especially if you really are the superior option. All I’m doing is pointing out the choice in the marketplace.

            In response to your last point there are plenty of parts that get replaced under warranty – especially on performance cars. Spirited drivers often need brakes, clutches, tyres, filters, etc., replaced before the warranty runs out. (Wear and tear isn’t warrantable.)

            In response to your last point: Who wants to pay $100 an hour for a dealer’s junior burger mechanic to service your car badly, and to not give a toss while he does it, while a local bloke who’s built up his servicing business based solely on quality of service in the long term might do a great job for less – and give you better advice into the bargain?

        • Andrew M

          Manufacturers warrent their parts and labour for usually 3 years or 100,000 k’s.

          That is a guarantee to the consumer that the vehicle they purchase shouldnt need any major maintainence for at least that period.

          If a bush wears out before that gaurantee is up, then it is defective because it didnt withstand the period it was guaranteed for.

          Even batteries are covered, (but usually for a shorter time, Normally 12 months)

          Also brakes are usually only covered for about 50K, so even if you get a bit of squeal creap in, they should machine it for you

          If you burn your clutch out at 50K, then the manufacturer will replace it.

          If it was that easy to pass the blame to the consumer, manufacturers wouldnt process any warranty claims.

          • Radbloke

            I don’t think you read my post. They will replace it if the part is defective. If you abuse the vehicle (ie, dropping the cluch and doing burnouts constantly, riding the clutch savagely, driving your vehicle at high speed over very rough ground, etc) it is up to the driver to foot the bill. Abuse and stupidity is not covered under any warranty policy I’ve ever seen.

  • Tom

    Great write up guys! Most people have no idea this is the case. Cheers

  • Mick

    It’s all very well.
    It’s a case of having a business relationship with the dealership. If you want them to help you out, then you should help them out by being a loyal customer.
    If you are a loyal customer and you have a borderline issue such as a clutch. Dealers will often bend the rules to get something covered under warranty.
    However they wont do this if you screw them over by sourcing your own parts everytime something needs to be done. Or getting your car serviced by a private mechanic then only returning to the dealer for warranty claims or recalls.
    They will basically tell you to go away, or do anything they can to make it “not warranty”.

    So it may seem smart to try and sneak around and screw over the dealer. But it’s probably better to just pay the extra few hundred a service. Its only once a year.
    Or you could get a Toyota with capped price servicing! :)

    • Andrew M

      Or a Mitsubishi

  • Steve

    There’s aftermarket parts and aftermarket parts. Sure you’ll save a buck by putting Chinese knock off pads in your Audi, but if they don’t fit 100% they squeal.

    Why risk putting something that may no (or may well be) suitable into your car. It might take $500 labour to fit a clutch etc, if the non-brand part you instructed the mechanic to fit doesn’t work, the labour charges to remedy the failure are your responsibility.

    I’m not a Dealership mechanic, and there are some exceptions where basic servicing parts, belts etc are generally fine. But with modern cars these days you have to know where to draw the line with aftermarket bits.

    Over all this is shonky advice.

  • Mr Brooksy

    John, fantastic write up again! This is as simple, understandable and SOLID advice as your previous article (which was fantastic)!

    One thing needs to be said however, which may satisfy the whole “opening a can of worms” issue that the others are saying. If you don’t care about the extra few hundred $$ as has been mentioned, go for it! Spend it, no skin off anyones noses! But if you want to get aftermarket parts, then one piece of advice is critical, RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH!!! for example, something as simple as replacement oil. There is a huge company that owns over 70% of new car dealers in a NSW city, and some service centers use mini oil refinery stations that recycle engine oil and put that recycled oil into your new BMW, HONDA etc. Let me ask, if you’re intelligent, would you rather getting some full synthetic Mobil, Castrol etc oil put in or recycled… err, who knows what?!

    Put simply, if you don’t care, pay the extra… But if you do, research and find the best product available for the price and have that installed.

    Simple!

    And John, those who attack you as anti dealer etc, are sitting behind their desk at a Holden, Toyota, Kia dealer wasting time on the net that our money from repairs help pay for.

    • Eric

      Mr Brook

      If the above posts are from mechanics, that’s a good thing. They are keeping up with what going on ;)

      I am not mechanic but have spoken to a Mazda Service Manager about the above thing.

      Customer calls around to best price on service while under warranty. Local mechanic is $100 cheaper for the same service. Gives the job to his local guy. The following week the ute loses power, calls local mechanic who says. “Everything is good, must be a problem with the ute Mazda will fix it under warranty.”

      Mazda look at it. Calls the customer up someone has fitted a RYCO fuel filler and that is the problem.

      Not covered by warranty. So who pays…..

      Moral of the story unless the Mechanic know your car and what parts to use and has the correct tools to do the job why would you use them??

      • Mr Brooksy

        I wasn’t talking about the mechanic, I was referring to the paper pushers, how many mechanics actually have time to surf the net during work hours? And if they do, then they will not touch my car!

        And at the end of the day, even if they were mechanics, do you think that they have an alerter motive? I cant imagine the local Holden mechanics saying, sure go and buy other peoples parts etc, we have no problem loosing business?

        My main point is that some after market parts are better than OEM! So putting better parts in you, for similar prices, then you’d be stupid not to. Simple eg, disc brakes on BSeries Falcons?!

        • dent

          And some genuine parts are cheaper than after market, so yes shop around but don’t automatically assume that genuine is dearer and make sure the local guy down the road is quoting you for the service in full as per the hand book not just half of it and then upselling you the rest after you’ve dropped the car in (ive lost count the amount of times I’ve heard that story)

  • JEKYL & HYDE

    “one reader suggested that most dealership’s new car divisions operate at a loss of just break even,and that service and spares is where they get their coin(but i don’t think so)”.

    having read all you previous articles,and all the feedback,i think that the feedback that you refer(out of the six or seven)stated that most new car divisions run at something like 3%,and you can get a 6% return from simply putting your money in a bank.that was then and is now still true,but it’s great to see that your still living in denial of that one.john,you only get crap dumped on you if you speak it first,and your next few articles you will have noticed a far better reception,from both the public and industry workers alike,with this one no exemption.if anything you haven’t quite gone far enough.

    what about which manufactorer’s go further with warrenty than others?what are the inclusions and exclusions of warrenty,and how to they differ betwwen manufactorers?which factory warrenties continue when the car is onsold?who pays for the new injector/motor should something like dirty fuel be involved,and maybe,where is the best legal advice you can find,once you find yourself in a situation?…

  • Radbloke

    This is an interesting article, and definitely an issue worth discussion.

    With regards to parts pricing, you’re dead right. When I was an apprentice for a prestige dealership I did ‘back yarders’ most weekends, and I made most of my money on parts. I would usually double my weeks wages by doing a few services and a couple of sets of brakes on a Saturday.

    After-market parts are a bit of a grey area. Usually, if the parts are substantially cheaper than OEM parts, there’s a reason. Brakes and filters usually aren’t such a big deal, but when you get into important stuff like control modules, sensors, engine and gearbox components it’s best to go OEM.

    Interesting to note, I usually find Mazda OEM parts to be cheaper than after-market. Go figure.

    • dent

      Ummm Brakes are kind of a big deal, I’ll will not put a set of $30 rice paper brake pads in my car ever! I value my and my families life more than that.
      Alot of manufactures have there own range on ‘after market’, Nissan has Automate, Mitsi has Value Selection (previously Diamond Specturm), Hyundai has one but the name escapes me atm, Ford had Motorcraft etc etc etc. So while the dealer can quote OEM there is also another option.

      • Radbloke

        I meant not a big deal as in even genuine pads aren’t going to break the bank (unless you’ve got an M3/C63 or something similar). If someone is dumb enough to put a set of $30 after-market pads they got from a country that no longer exists, they probably deserve to die.

  • Locky

    @ JEKYL & HYDE

    “who pays for the new injector/motor should something like dirty fuel be involved,and maybe,where is the best legal advice you can find,once you find yourself in a situation?…”

    I’d like to answer this very easily…If servicing your vehicle by the log book schedule using an aftermarket (private) workshop you must make sure they are a member of that states relevant Motor Trades Association (MTA, VACC or MTAQ etc). If you have a problem with a part or dealer warranty, they will often step in as an adjudicator. All dealerships and most private businesses are members of these associations, their main role is to “police” and set the industry benchmarks with close consultation with members.

    One more thing to note that many people are not aware. Just about all dealerships use their youngest most inexperienced technicians to service your car, leaving the qualified to focus mostly on repairs/warranty. My beef with this is they portray in advertising “qualified” technicians will work on your vehicle and DO NOT but they still charge you full labour rates ($120 – 140 per hour) when it cost them probably $10 – 12 per hour. On the other hand, most times if you take your vehicle to a “private” mechanic or business, you will have highly qualified and experienced technicians (most ex dealership) work on your vehicle.

    My own vehicle has been serviced solely by private technicians and has never let me down and still drives like new at nearly 200,000km’s. They have allowed me to nominate which brand oil and parts I wanted fitted AND which technician I wanted to work on my vehicle.

    I have never had a warranty issue or concern, the choice is easy really.

    • Andrew M

      Where do these people that only cost $10 an hour come from??
      Bit of an exaggeration, but I get your point, you think Profit is a dirty word

    • Claffz

      So what if an apprentice performs your service.
      It isnt rocket science to perform a standard service on a car, not everybody has the hoist and tools to efficiently replace oil spark plugs etc.

      At the end of the day i think the point you and alot of people here are missing is that the dealer has a name brand attached to it and even though the ACCC tells us we can legally go to whoever we like for service I can tell you that the dealer has far more reach due to the direct nature of contact with the manufacturer…

      There are exceptions to this no doubt…and i think thats what we are getting caught up on here…

      • Radbloke

        Exactly. How is an apprentice supposed to learn anything if they’re not allowed to work on someones vehicle? Some of you guys are living in a dream world.

  • Mick

    Agree you should do an article on which brands have the best warranty.
    For example Hyundai has good warranty on paper. But will pretty much not warrant anything if there is some chance you broke it or damaged it yourself.
    If the clutch goes at 2000kms? No Warranty.
    Then at the other end of the spectrum you have Toyota. Who constantly recall their vehicles at the slightest chance of a problem, and will often warrant things a long time after the vehicle has run out of warranty.
    Take for example the 80 Series Turbo Diesel they were fixing the big end bearings sometimes 5 years after warranty expired. As well as cracked heads on the 1KZ 3.0L Diesel.
    These are examples of why an article comparing them would be handy. As well as actually consulting with people who have made claims, rather than what the policy covers on paper.

    • Andrew M

      What also should be made clear is how worthless aftermarket warranties are in contrast to manufacturer warranties

    • Japius

      “the other end of the spectrum you have Toyota……”

      You forgot to add …..after they have milked more money and potentially put thousands of lives at risk, then they will do a recall only if the media get involved…..

      I see your point, but given recent years recalls Toyota was a bad example

  • Hooda

    Thank goodness electric cars dont have coolant, fuel filter, oil filter, air filter, transmission oil, engine oil, steering oil, fuel pump, starter motor, etc. !!!

    • Mr Brooksy

      So which FULLY electric car are you driving/referring to?

  • whatcarRAH

    “One reader of that last report said that the new car sales divisions of most dealerships operate at a loss or just break even, and that it’s the service and parts departments that generate the profitability. I suspect that’s not actually the case,”

    You suspect this? How about doing some reasearch and lettting us know if its fact, not what you suspect.

    • http://www.caradvice.com.au/ John Cadogan

      Thanks for giving me such an easy question to answer.

      a) My comment on suspecting the sale of news cars is actually profitable is a bit of tongue-in-cheek. Only a moron could conclude that the sale of new cars was unprofitable, given the self-evident nature of the viability of the underlying enterprise (extensive global competition, premium real estate, long-term self-evident viability of the majority of dealerships, etc.)

      Just to be clear here: what was written meant ‘Selling new cars is clearly a very profitable undertaking. The comments about operating at a loss are rubbish.’ The jury’s not out on this.

      b) I’d be interested in your ‘advice’ about how this research you advocate might actually be conducted. Dealers don’t discuss with the press their profitability generally or the profit margins on particular cars.

      You might want to think just a little bit harder before commenting next time.

  • http://CarAdvice La Mercator

    John,
    I understand the point of you Coolum. And I don’t disagree with it.
    Most of the responses here reflect my own.

  • Rob

    Or .. you could do what I do and purchase the exact same genuine parts overseas for around half the price you get ripped for them at your local “Stealer!”

    In a lot of cases they arrive quicker too.

  • Bob

    Interesting to see the dealership folk get all defensive. Why are they so nervous? I’ll tell you why – they are a scam. Well in my experience they are.

    20 years experience in servicing my cars tells me the dealerships are out to make a quick buck out of me, whilst my dependable independant looks after my (and his) longer term interests.

    I try to avoid dealerships – I only go there now where absolutely necessary. Each time I do go there, they try to extract as much money they can from me buy upselling me useless sundries that cost them 5c and charge me $50-200.

    My son and his mates all work at your friendly local dealership. The dealerships like to tell you their mechanics are factory trained specialists. More often than not, your car is being worked on by a teenage apprentice who’s just been promoted from chief lunch getter and workshop dog.

    The antics that go on at those places only re-enforces my distaste of dealerships.

    • http://CarAdvice La Mercator

      Bob,

      If you have 20 years experience servicing cars, why do you take it to a local independent?
      Recently an investigation was done by an independent news/media journalist. A vehicle was taken to several independent mechanics with results varying between a few hundred dollars to thousands in repairs. The most honest? Dealership’s. Their was nothing wrong with the car.
      In addition dealership service departments are regally “Mystery Shopped” by people employed by the manufacturer. If the service department falls below a standard they will be asked for a please explain. If the service level doesn’t improve then the Dealer (in extreme cases) could loose the franchise rights.
      It amazes me people think local mechanics are some sort of charity. A saint of sorts. They are providing a service that they charge for. And make their profit from you.
      You shouldn’t be surprised dealers will try and up sell. Every time I go to a fast food drive thru and by an electrical item the sales staff try to up sell me more. Surprise, its how they make profit. Do you know how much the term “Would you like fries with that” Made to McDonalds bottom line? MILLIONS!!!!

  • Tinman

    I wonder how many dealer service departments use aftermarket parts where ever they can,to boost the bottom line?

  • Brett

    for every new car I bought, I did my own servicing, using as many quality non genuine items as possible. Everytime I have ever made a warrantee claim against the vehicle, it has been completely honoured. For example the dealership might use a standard oil grade recommended for the vehicle, but I can buy a higher quality synthetic cheaper. Many non genuine parts, and consumeables, state on their packaging “meets or exceeds OEM requirements”. It’s only when I cant get that quality, I source genuine.

  • Rob

    Got a price from a local Ford Dealer for a new clutch for my Fiesta XR4 last week … $765.00 !!!

    Ordered the exact same genuine Ford part from the UK .. $249.00 delivered to my front door express airfreight.